[chapter three]
The Big Red City
How It Looks
The Big Red City -- another busy place. Moscow, besides being a manufacturing center, was selected as the executive headquarters of the U. S. S. R.
There was an absence of battered down buildings which gave Leningrad a shoddy appearance. Evidently this city did not have the misfortunes which the other had. Generally speaking Moscow appeared to be just like any other large European city. Even the appearance-that is the dress-of the people was much better than that of Russia's second largest city.My abode during my stay here was the Europa Hotel. It was there that I met an American engineer who was obviously pleased to converse with one of his own countrymen. He, also was in the electrical profession and upon learning of my former interests in that same field, said they needed men of such experience over 'here, and, if I was interested, that he would secure me a position. Offer number two now-and just before leaving Moscow I had still a third one. This was almost amusing,in view of the paucity of jobs in America. In Russia, it seemed, they were giving them away.
Co-operation Unheard Of
On one of the streets not very far from the Theatre Square I saw soldiers helping workers lay paving brick in the process of resurfacing. Why soldiers doing this work? My interpreter instructed me that this is often done when the soldiers have their day off. I still marvelled, for from the looks of things, they were even trying to out-do the workers in laying brick. But why work extra on such a hot August day like this, especially when there are so many less strenuous jobs to be had? If this is what socialism is doing to Russia, my hat is off to it. Of all the stories written about heroism and patriotism in our fiction books and in the great wars of the world, I don't think anything can surpass this spirit. Deeds of this kind should warrant the under scoring of every letter in the word co-operation, and that, not only two times, but three. This in itself went a long way toward convincing me that socialism was to stay. I mentioned this to my engineer friend to see what he had to say about it and found his thoughts to be the same as mine, but of-,course, there was the chance of prejudice in his case.
Moscow's Daily Parade
At different hours of the day thousands of people wait in line outside of Lenin's Tomb in order to get a view of their former leader, Nikolai Lenin (Vladimir Ilyitch Ulianov). His tomb is located just outside the Kremlin wall in the Red Square and is guarded day and night by soldiers. In order to payhonors to this great man his tomb was constructed of stone brought from all parts of the Soviet Union.The day of my visit was in the early evening. There were at least 2,000 waiting to gain entrance at the scheduled hour. Being foreigners, my party from the hotel and I were allowed to go in 'first. I didn't bother to question whether this was merecourtesy or politics.
In a chamber below the street surface lay the body of what may be called the most liked and most disliked man of the world. 'To this day his corpse, which can be seen through the glass case that covers his coffin, is well preserved. The beam of light shining on his face gives one the impression that this great man is not really dead.
Nearby Lenin's tomb, along the wall of the Kremlin, is a grave yard where other noted men of the world's first Socialist Republic are buried. John Reed, journalist, and Big Bill Haywood, an I. W.W. (Industrial Workers of the World) leader, both Americans, are buried there. In Russia, the former used every ounce of his energy in carrying out reconstruction missions and writing, whereas the latter, a political refugee, took part in the organizing work of the Kuznetz Colony in Siberia and assisted various workers' organizations.
Passing out of the Red Square through an archway west from Lenin's tomb and the grave yard, was a little shrine called the Iberian Virgin, where it is said many Russians used to mumble their prayers and kiss the images. I was informed the shrine had been removed because it was thought to be an obstruction to traffic. Was this part of their policy of crushing religion? Or had they transferred their worship to Lenin, who is thought of as a god by some of the people? The answer lay most nearly, opposite where the Virgin shrine used to stand, on the wall of an executive office building, where is the statement : "Religion is the opiate of the people."
The Kremlin
Inside the Kremlin (a Russian word meaning fort) are the executive buildings and several churches. One building has been converted into a museum and millions of dollars worth of jewels and ornaments have been placed oh exhibition. What was once the property of the Czars and priests hasbeen confiscated and placed here. The vast amount of priceless possessions owned by the ruling class of Czardom, I would be safe in saying, almost gave them a heaven on earth. The garments of gold embroidered with jewels are almost too precious to wear. And some of these gowns, if a thread should break, would release at least a 1,000 dollars worth of fine gold or jewels. The same wealth was extended to the carriages. These were ornamented so luxuriously with gold and precious stones that extra horses had to be used to pull the enormous amount of "heavy wealth." Well, the Bolsheviks put a stop to that and have all of this wealth, what was once private property, corralled in a museum now.
Most of us are under the impression that the Russians deliberately and maliciously destroyed churches at their pleasure. Whatever the accusations applied to churches elsewhere are, two right in the Kremlin-where one would think all churches would be dismantled if anywhere-were actually being restored to preserve the art work of theinterior.
In one .of these is a record posted telling in detail the-money which was spent in the restoration of a Russian Czar. This little restoration party cost the Russian people 7,000,000 rubles, or about 8,500,006 dollars in our money. Some party!
On my way out, to my astonishment, I saw aCossack. What right did this man have in wearing a Czarist soldier's uniform in a Socialist Republic? He had once been a Cossack under the Czar, but when the revolution broke out he went over to the side of the Bolsheviks. To this day he considers it an honorwear his shabby uniform to show his comrades that one who was once a Cossack under the Czar is a brother to communism.
Demonstration Day in Moscow
All over the Soviet Union on August 1st were demonstrations against imperialist war. Being in Moscow at the time I witnessed one of these affairs. In the afternoon the usual big demonstration took place in the Red Square. In other parts of the city, where large parks are located, other similar demonstrations occurred.
My evening was spent in one of these parks beside the ' Moscow river, where a meeting was scheduled after the feats of the afternoon. On the river hundreds of canoes and motor and sail boats still kept up the enthusiasm by races or sailing "just for fun," while many picnickers enjoyed the sport of spectating. Two young men had cleverly rigged up an aeroplane motor with the usual propeller and used this to push their boat through the water. The propeller did not submerge into the water, -but remained above in the air-a sort of aero-motor-boat.
Moscow athletic girls who participated in the August 1st demonstration
Finding a way out of the park was a real task, especially when it was necessary to push through large crowds of people, young and old. It reminded me of the crowded streets of New York and Chicago when a big parade is about to take place. Some of them were stopping to view the exhibition of the Five Year Plan, to purchase confections, or merely to loiter. Many a young couple could be seen promenading along the walkways-perhaps talking of love. In all, there must have been at least 100,000 people in this one place at the time to say nothing of the jammed street cars throughout the city, Even the main thoroughfares were filled with people. In-deed, the whole, city must have turned out for the event.
Theatre Square Park
One evening, in company with a young RussianAmerican, a Mr. P-, who was stopping off at my hotel before continuing his journey to visit his brother, I went out for a stroll. I had enjoyed his constant company in Moscow since we struck up an acquaintance. He told me he owned a barber shop in Long Island and that this was his first visit back to his home country. He had left Russia before the Revolution and things were almost as new to him as they were to me. I often asked him what he thought of his native country now, but he refused to comment beyond commonplace remarks until he learned more from his brother. Anyway, he knew the Russian language and I took advantage of this in getting questions answered for me by the people we would talk to. The interpreters I had had in Leningrad and thus far in Moscow were found to be truthful, but I desired to check things further for my own satisfaction.
Before we knew it we had already walked into the park of Theatre Square. Every seat was taken so we loitered along the walkways thinking at any moment someone would leave. Finally one man roseand left his seat and my friend suggested that I take it. A few moments later another seat across from where I was sitting became vacant so my young barber friend made a dash for it. We sat there hoping someone either on his or my bench would leave. Luck came our way for the person next to me left, giving us the opportunity to sit together.
Next to my friend was a young Russian dressed in American style clothes, who asked if we spoke English. Somewhat surprised I was quick to enter into a conversation with him. Between the three of us we had an entertaining time of it. The young Russian was an architectural student and had learned to speak English in a Moscow school.
I was just as anxious to find out about his country as he was about mine, but he kept me answering his questions so fast in spite of my efforts to turn the conversation about-face, that I had little opportunity. All the time he beamed with delight at having an opportunity to speak English with some one. He said he was desirous of learning more of that language and took every opportunity to do so. His inquisitiveness ran mostly along architectural lines. He was interested in our tall buildings and how they were built, having seen pictures of them in his text books.
Finally I succeeded in getting him to answer some of my questions. A few, as I recall, were as follows: Q. "How long have you been studying architectural engineering or whatever you call it here?" Ans. "Two years." Q. "Were you paid while studying?" Ans. "I was furnished with all that I needed and expense money." Q. "What are you doing now?" Ans. "Drawing building plans this summer." Q. "Do you like the Soviet form of government?" Ans. "It gives me an education which I have always wanted." Q. "Ate conditions better in Russia since the Revolution?" Ans. "For the last several years we have been making rapid progress." Q. "What kind of progress?" Ans. "More factories, buildings, and everything to make Russia a great country." Q. "Do you go to church?" Ans. "Not for the last five years." Q. "Why?" Ans. "I do not like it. I like to read instead." Q. "Are you a member of the Communist Party?" Ans. "Perhaps some day, but now all my time is occupied with study."
No sooner had the young architect left us when two pretty girls walked past us and smiled. A few minutes later they were back and repeated their performance. I thought this a good opportunity to find out what the women bad to say about Russia. My friend agreed with me so we encouraged the little flirtation. When they passed us the fourth time we got up and followed them out of the park. The firstword spoken by one of them was "hello" to us inEnglish. Do all the young Russians speak English,I thought ! The other girl only knew a few words of English and depended on her girl friend and my friend to interpret for her as we strolled along toward another park nearby. One was employed in a galosh factory.
It was getting late so I suggested to the young ladies and my friend that we go to some cafe and get a drink and lunch. Here was a chance to see if they reacted in the traditional way of hungry women about to receive a free meal. We passed Theatre Square and continued several blocks from the,,, where the girls said was a good cafe. We asked our feminine friends what they wished. Both said they wanted food. I winked at my friend. But I was all wrong, for they ordered only a shrimp sandwich and a glass of beer. Here I had a good chance to study our new Russian friends more closely as we were seated in the cafe. When the waiter brought the sandwiches and the glasses of beer the girls nibbled on the sandwiches with the best manners possible.
By that time we had told them what our purpose was in coming to Russia and the rest of our conversation in the cafe did not pertain to anything particular, but just the thoughts which came unwilled to our minds at the time. Neither girl finished her sandwich nor her beer. We escorted them home andcame directly back to the hotel.
I asked my friend, "Gold diggers?"
"Humm," he replied, "Not those girls!"
My Laundry
It happened that it was necessary to get my clothes washed while in Moscow. I learned there, was a Chinese shop not far from my hotel and finally succeeded in locating it in a basement of an old apartment building. I showed the Chinaman what I wanted washed and asked what it would cost. He showed me a bar of soap and then wrote some figures on a piece of paper. Then with a motion without the soap wrote some other figures on the same paper. This I interpreted as meaning if I furnished soap it would cost me so much, without soap so and so-figures being higher in that case. I had already heard of this arrangement of furnishing soap when getting laundry work done, as it was much' easier for foreigners to purchase this than the Russians. So our sign conversation was quite simple and well understood.
Next I asked him when I could get my washing done by pointing to my calendar. He wanted me to wait a week but that was too long, and not being able to persuade him into doing it sooner, I walked out. Later I learned that this was the only Chinese laundry in the city and that his shop only washedone or two times a week depending on the amount of clothes ; moreover, that this was a private shop operated by a lone Chinaman. What arrangements he made with the government for rent and rights I was not able to find out. His customers were not all Russians but included tourists and foreigners.
My laundry was eventually done by the chambermaid who cared for my room at the hotel and did washing for the guests as a job on the side. I furnished her with the soap, purchased from "Torgsin" -the government store for foreigners. In three days my clothes were ready and done at a fair price, too. When I went to pay for them she expressed a decided preference to be paid in soap, an arrangement which was equally agreeable to me since in purchasing it I was allowed a discount. At that time only a small amount of soap was allowed each individual and those doing a great amount of washing were handicapped, and particularly, those who like my maid wanted to make extra money by doing laundry work and who were often embarrassed for lack of soap.